Planting plans rooted in zone 4b.
Every plant chosen for our climate, our soils, our pollinators. Native species, regenerative cultivars, durable performers. The plant list you’ll still be tending in 2050.
— Why most planting plans fail by year two
A plant list is not a planting plan.
Most planting plans are spreadsheets of cultivars chosen from a Pinterest board. They look gorgeous on paper. They die in Vermont within two seasons.
Wrong zone hardiness.
Plants rated for zone 5b or 6 chosen because the photo was beautiful. They limp through year one, die in the first hard winter (which is most winters).
No site-soil match.
Hydrangea where ferns belong. Hostas in full sun. Lavender in clay-loam. The right plant in the wrong place is a slow death sentence.
Bloom-time blindness.
Everything blooms in June. The garden is dead-looking from August to May. Successive bloom planning is critical to a year-round garden.
No pollinator strategy.
Showy cultivars with no nectar value. The garden looks pretty but supports nothing — and the surrounding ecosystem suffers.
— Planting plans, by the numbers
— What’s included
A planting plan that comes with a manual.
A complete planting plan from Cairn & Cedar is a working document — designed to be installed by anyone, maintained by anyone, and added to over time.
Site soil + microclimate analysis
Soil sample, pH testing, drainage assessment, sun/shade map. Plant choices flow from the site, not from a wish list.
Master planting plan (to scale)
Every plant location plotted on a scale drawing. Spacing, mature size, install size all noted.
Plant schedule
Every plant by Latin name, cultivar, common name, install size, source nursery, quantity, and unit cost.
Successive bloom calendar
Month-by-month chart showing what’s in flower, foliage color, fruit display, or winter interest.
Pollinator strategy
Specifically called-out plants for native bees, monarchs, hummingbirds. Continuous nectar sources from April through September.
Maintenance guide
Plain-language doc covering pruning, dividing, mulching, and seasonal tasks. Written for the homeowner, not for the gardener.
Year 1 + Year 2 visit
We come back in late spring of years one and two, walk the beds, replace any plant under our two-year guarantee, no charge.
— How a planting plan develops
Four steps. Eight to twelve weeks.
Planting plans typically develop over 8–12 weeks once site analysis is complete. We schedule design in winter for spring planting; or in summer for fall planting.
Site analysis + soil sample
Walk the property with the architect. Test soil. Map sun/shade. Photo-document existing plants. Discuss client preferences and dislikes.
Conceptual planting strategy
Hand-drawn schematic showing planting zones (foundation beds, screening, accent groupings, naturalized areas). Strategic choice before specific plants.
Plant specification
Specific plants assigned to each zone. Plant schedule built. Successive bloom calendar laid out. Reviewed with client, revised once.
Final plan + maintenance guide
Stamped planting plan, plant schedule, maintenance guide. Ready for our crew or yours to install.
— Recent planting work
Three recent gardens.
Lakefront master plan, 2½ acres.
Three terraced rooms stepping down to Lake Champlain. 240 ft of dry-laid stone wall, cedar pavilion, native pollinator beds.
Read project →
Seven-terrace hilltop garden.
Re-grading a north-facing slope into seven dry-stone-walled terraces of perennials, fruit trees, and a 60-foot meditation walk.
Read project →
1,400 sq ft contemporary courtyard.
Bluestone paving, cedar slat screening, a small reflecting pool, and three Japanese maples for autumn color.
Read project →Standalone plan, you install yourself or hire out
$3.5K–$12Kdesign only
Smaller properties (under ½ acre, 2–3 zones) start at $3.5K. Larger properties with multiple distinct planting zones run $8K–$12K. Doesn’t include plant material or install.
We design, source, and plant
$25K–$120Kcomplete scope
Most clients have us source plants from our nursery network and install with our crew. Pricing depends on plant count, size at install, and bed prep complexity.
— Planting questions
What clients want to know.
Why focus on natives?
Three reasons. First, ecological — native plants support native pollinators, birds, and soil biology in a way exotic ornamentals can’t. Second, durability — natives evolved here, so they handle our weather without coddling. Third, aesthetic — a Vermont garden that uses Vermont plants reads as belonging to the place. Cultivars and exotics have a role; natives are the foundation.
Will it look like a ‘native garden’ (i.e. messy)?
Not unless you want it to. Native plants can be designed in formal arrangements (a structured perennial border can be 90% native), naturalistic arrangements (woodland gardens, meadow plantings), or anything in between. The design language is up to you; the plant palette is what we steward.
What’s the warranty on plants?
Two-year guarantee on every plant we install. If a plant dies within two years (and it wasn’t due to maintenance failure on the client’s side — overwatering, hits from the lawn mower, drought stress without watering), we replace it at no charge.
Can I use plants you don’t recommend?
Of course — your garden, your call. We’ll flag plants that don’t suit your site (zone, soil, sun) and recommend alternatives. If you still want them, we’ll plant them; the warranty just doesn’t apply to plants installed against our recommendation.
How long until the garden ‘fills in’?
Year one: looks sparse but planted. Year two: filling in, half-mature feel. Year three: looks like a real garden. Year five: peak visual interest. We can install plants at larger sizes (for faster fill) but it costs significantly more — usually it’s better to be patient.
Do you provide ongoing maintenance?
We don’t do mow-and-blow lawn care, but we offer a quarterly garden visit ($600/visit) where the architect walks the beds, prunes selectively, divides perennials, addresses pest issues, and updates the planting plan. Most master-plan clients do this for the first 3–5 years.