Raised beds you only build once.
2x cedar raised beds with cedar corner posts and stainless hardware. 18″ or 24″ deep. Sized to the gardener’s reach. Built so the wood isn’t the failure point — the soil and the gardener are the variables.
— Why most raised beds fall apart in five years
Cedar isn’t enough — construction matters.
Most raised beds are kits or cobbled-together 2×6 boxes screwed at the corners. They look fine year one, sag by year three, and need replacement by year six. Built right, cedar raised beds last 15+ years.
Pocket screws at the corners.
Wood swells and shrinks seasonally; pocket screws fail. Within 3 years the corners are loose and the bed is twisting.
Galvanized hardware in moist soil.
Galvanized fasteners in constantly-wet bed soil corrode within 5 years. Stainless costs slightly more and stays sound for the bed’s full life.
Beds too narrow.
Many kit beds are only 8–10″ deep — fine for shallow-rooted greens, useless for serious vegetables. 18″ minimum for productive growing; 24″ for root crops and accessibility.
No bottom drainage.
Beds set on packed clay or pavement without drainage. Soil stays saturated, plants die back, wood rots from the inside.
— Raised beds, by the numbers
— What’s included
Raised beds you build once.
Whether a single 4×8 vegetable bed or a multi-bed pollinator garden system, every bed follows the same standards.
Site assessment
Sun exposure, water source proximity, accessibility for the gardener, deer/pest pressure evaluation.
Bed sizing
Standard 4 ft wide (reachable from both sides) or 2 ft wide (against a wall, reachable from one side). Length to suit space.
2x cedar boards + corner posts
2×10 or 2×12 boards stacked to 18″ or 24″ height. Cedar 4×4 corner posts mortared to base or set on patio.
Stainless hardware
Stainless lag bolts at corners, stainless screws on cap rail. No galvanized, no aluminum.
Cap rail
Wide cedar cap rail (4″ or 6″ wide) doubles as a sit-on edge for weeding and harvest.
Bottom drainage
Beds installed on lawn get bottom hardware cloth (gopher protection) + soil. On pavement, drainage holes drilled in bottom boards.
Optional irrigation pre-plumbed
Drip irrigation lines or soaker hose grid laid into the bed before soil fill.
— How beds get built
Four steps. Two to four weeks.
Single raised beds install in 1–2 days. Multi-bed systems take 1–2 weeks. Total project 2–4 weeks.
Site visit
Two-hour walk with the architect. We listen, you talk. We measure light, slope, drainage, and existing material. No PowerPoint.
Design
Hand-drawn schematic, then full construction documents. Material specs, sections, footing detail. Two reviews built in.
Quote
Fixed-price proposal, line-itemed by trade. You see the math. Change orders signed before any change happens.
Build
Our in-house crew on site every working day. Weekly progress photos. Architect at every milestone. We don’t leave until the punch list is empty.
— Recent raised bed work
Three recent cedar projects.
Lakefront master plan, 2½ acres.
Three terraced rooms stepping down to Lake Champlain. 240 ft of dry-laid stone wall, cedar pavilion, native pollinator beds.
Read project →
Seven-terrace hilltop garden.
Re-grading a north-facing slope into seven dry-stone-walled terraces of perennials, fruit trees, and a 60-foot meditation walk.
Read project →
1,400 sq ft contemporary courtyard.
Bluestone paving, cedar slat screening, a small reflecting pool, and three Japanese maples for autumn color.
Read project →Standard 4×8 or 4×10, 18″–24″ deep
$2K–$5Kper bed installed
Most single raised beds run $2K–$3.5K; doubled-up height (24″ for accessibility) or premium 4-sided cap configuration up to $5K.
Multi-bed garden, pathways, integration
$8K–$45Kcomplete scope
Multi-bed kitchen gardens with bluestone pathways, integrated trellis systems, cedar fencing for deer exclusion, and irrigation.
— Raised bed questions
What clients ask.
What soil should I fill them with?
We use a 50/50 mix of locally-sourced topsoil and aged compost, with about 10% perlite for drainage. We can deliver and fill the beds at install for an additional fee, or you source your own. Don’t use bagged ‘raised bed mix’ — usually too lightweight and devoid of microbiology.
Will the cedar leach into my food?
Cedar is naturally rot-resistant due to its own oils — there’s no preservative leaching. Eastern white cedar is safe for vegetable gardens. (Don’t use pressure-treated lumber for vegetable beds — those preservatives DO leach.)
How long does the cedar last?
15+ years for the bed walls. Bottom boards in direct soil contact may need replacement at 12–15 years; cap rails last 20+. The beds aren’t ‘for life’ but they’re long enough that the soil amendments matter more than the wood.
Do I need to seal or stain the cedar?
No. Sealants trap moisture and accelerate rot. Cedar weathers naturally to silver-gray. If you want to preserve the warm color, a UV-blocking clear oil is fine but needs reapplication every 18 months.
Can you install over an existing patio?
Yes — beds on stone or paver surfaces install with bottom drainage holes and direct-set on the surface. The patio acts as the bed bottom, no excavation needed.
Deer-proof options?
Yes. We can integrate a cedar-and-wire mesh enclosure (hoop or pyramid frame) around the bed system, with hinged access doors. Or build a fully fenced ‘kitchen garden’ enclosure with multiple beds inside.